RANJH men's Indian occasion wear

Bhai Dooj and Bhai Phonta: Your Brother's House

Bhai Dooj in most of the country, Bhai Phonta in Bengal, and in both the shape is the same: a tilak or a phonta on the forehead in the morning, a promise that is older than anybody in the room, and then lunch.

Why simpler is right here

This is a house occasion and a morning one. Nobody is standing on a terrace; you are sitting on a floor or at a table, in daylight, with a thumb of sandalwood paste being aimed at your brother's forehead.

The photograph from this morning is the one that gets kept and looked at in ten years, and in ten years the heavily worked saree will look like the year it was bought. A plain one will not.

So: a Katan silk in a single colour, a jamdani, a good cotton. In Bengal the white-and-red is worn today as much as at any puja and it is exactly right.

For the brother

He will wear whatever is nearest. If you would like him not to: a plain kurta in white, cream or a muted colour — kurta pajama sets — and that is the whole requirement. No jacket, no sherwani, nothing that reads as a wedding.

If you are the one giving the gift

The convention runs both ways now, and a saree is the safest gift in it. Two things make it land: buy the weave rather than the embellishment, and buy it in her colour rather than yours. The saree edit, and if you would rather she chose, a gift card is not a failure of imagination — it is an acknowledgement that a saree is a personal thing.

And that is the festival

Six weeks from Mahalaya to here. The clothes now need putting away properly — how to store a silk saree — because the wedding season starts in a fortnight and half of them will come back out for it. The six-week plan has what comes next.

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